Clutch install. Fluids questions

[Kuruma]

This next weekend I will be installing a new clutch in my IX RS. my question is..

Hardware: what needs replacing while I am in there. I bought an Exedy Twin, but there are no flywheel bolts. I find it sketch to re-use the original bolts, because most flywheel bolts I have worked with were torque to yield. So do I need to order some new OEM bolts? Do anything like axle nuts need replacing?or any other hardware?

Fluids: What systems will be drained/lines opened for removal (ACD, LSD, and TRANS, CLUTCH)? just curious I have some fluids from when I changed them all, what quantity should I expect to loose of listed fluids during the clutch job?

Parts: Any seals I might tear or are just reccomended during the clutch job?

I just need to make a list before hitting up the dealer for parts. I am not really loooking forward to this job, so I want it to go as smooth as possible.

Thanks,

Craig

[Evolvedgti]

I have seen the axle seal torn on the T/c after a clutch job PERSONALLY. Slow leak you dont notice, GOODBYE transfercase

[TouringBubble]

Go ahead and replace the rear main too ... I didn't do that, but it's like a $4 gasket.

I reused the flywheel bolts. The TQ spec is pretty high ... like 92 ft/lb and they don't seem to be stretch bolts. I don't see an issue reusing them.

Plan to change the Tranny and TC fluids and to top off and bleed the ACD. Mobil 1 makes a compatible fluid for that ... like $9/qt and we found it locally. You won't need to bleed the clutch, but if you need new brake fluid, you may as well take the time to do that as well.

[shunderwunder]

Here's the link to the How To that I used. http://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles.php?tech_article_id=27 I highly reccomend dropping the subframe also. It takes less than an hour and frees up tons of room. As for the fluids it looks like you've got em all listed but add power steering fluid if you drop the subframe since the rack will come out with it. I don't know of any seals that are recommended to be replaced. The flywheel bolts are not torque to yield. I've reused mine with no issues and haven't heard of any problems or need to replace them (Loctite is yer friend). There is a special tool needed to remove one of the shafts going thru the trans. I have one that I had fabbed up and you can borrow it if you want. I'm pretty sure everything else is standard tools. Give the How To a read thru and see what all you're looking at doing. If ya got any questions feel free to text or call.

[TouringBubble]

As far as the subframe, you don't have to drop it completely. We simply disconnected the column and let the subframe hang about 6" down, so no PS lines were disconnected. This is required for the 6-speed, and just makes it easier on the 5-speed.

Oh, and BE SURE to release the spring clip in the TOB before trying to slide the tranny off. You'll just get really pissed off if you forget it ... and also remember to set the new one back in when you get the tranny back on.

[Kuruma]

If I just lower the subframe like in the above post. Will that be enought to snake a front bar in? I was also planning on installing the front sway bar, but I only have 1 day to knock this out at the dealer, so I want this to go as smooth as possible. Unless Andy has room for me to do it with your help? :) I pay well and I could get the calipers and valve cover re-done while it's there! Just a thought :) LMK if that could be arranged.

Thanks Craig

[TouringBubble]

Yes, you can do the front bar as well without disconnecting PS lines.

[shunderwunder]

I'd be willing to help but I'll be at my brothers on Saturday and prolly at Rynos on Sunday. As a matter of fact I think next Sunday is my only free day in July. :/ Not sure about just lowering it a bit but if yer on a lift with a trans jack then that should give ya plenty of room. If you're allowed to have a helper in the shop with you I may be able to swing by and help ya before I go to my brothers. I know some dealers won't allow non employees in the shop though. Let me know if you need the shaft removal tool and I'll find a way to get it to ya.

[MeFryRice]

Let me know if you want some help. We'll have Frohawk come cheerlead for you. lol.

[EmminoDaGreaT]

damn I must be doing clutches the hard way i have never dropped the sub frame on mr' or gsr. will have to try it on the next one. I recommend a workout before cause the trans are heavy lol.

[Kuruma]

On a lift with air tools and a trans jack it should be no problem. How do you guys support the engine when lowering the sub frame? Pole jack under, or the hanging support from up top?

[TouringBubble]

damn I must be doing clutches the hard way i have never dropped the sub frame on mr' or gsr. will have to try it on the next one. I recommend a workout before cause the trans are heavy lol.

I think it depends on how the motor is supported. We had it supported from the top with a 3-point brace. After trying for about 3 hours to remove the trans with the subframe simply loosened, we just dropped it the rest of the way. The clearance issue was at the shifter assembly and the gearbox.

Kuruma, we used an engine brace at the top, but a lot of people just let the passenger side mount hold the weight. It seems to work fine. I didn't trust it myself, mainly due to the premature wear on the mount I thought it might cause.

[Kuruma]

Yeah, cornwell tools has a universal engine support brace for $120. I just don't trust it when it above my head and 6 feet off the ground. I might let it hang on jack stands but def not on a lift. Thanks for the info fellas.

Hey steve, as long as no fireworks, beer, and ice cream are involved ;) lol

[shunderwunder]

I just let it hang from the passenger side mount. Seemed to work fine and let's the drivers side hang down to allow easier trans removal.

[TouringBubble]

We did have to lower the top support to get the shifter assembly to clear, but the chains were still tight, so it was supported.