little problem

[turbo dragon]

I just got my evo 8 tune a few months ago and not to happy with it. before the tune I had all the normal bolt ons, full 3" exhaust, k&n intake, 255L fuel pump, turbo header, arp head studs, boost controller, bigger intercooler, lower & upper i/c piping, bov.

right before I took it to get tuned I had the head port & polished, stronger head gasket, stronger valves, springs, retainers, BC 272 cams, adjustable cam gears, evo 9 turbo, 1000 cc injectors, 6 puck clutch & flywheel.

last year at import showdown before the tune I ran 13.2 now after the tune my best was a 13.7 every time I would shift its like it was flooding out. Ive talked to few people and they told me to get rid of the BC cams and another evo owner at I/S plugged his data logger up to it and said it is running way to rich, but is it the cams or the tune or both,

the dyno numbers after the tune was 333hp and 324tq

thanks for any info on this problem

[blkonblk2red]

how much power were u making before?.. also yeah get rid of the bc cams... not a fan....could it be clutch ? what was ur 60? last year and this year? with those mods i think u should be a little higher.... but depends on dyno etc.... if ur running rich i suggest a new tune... who tuned it?

id say do both... cams seem mild as well... i'd think u'd be at atleast 350? someone correct me if i'm wrong...

[TouringBubble]

The BC 272s are not the best cams, but they also aren't the worst. The 280s are the really bad ones. But, I have seen cars lose power on BC cams.

Did you monitor wideband data when you "logged," or was it just narrowband? If not wideband, the data might not be completely accurate.

Has anything else changed? Wheels? Tires? Did the tuner enable anything like Tephra Mods which may include the NLTS mod? Do you have a check engine light (perhaps from a lean/rich code)?

[turbo dragon]

before the tune I was running 30 psi on the stock evo 8 turbo and put down 324hp 398tq after the tune at 25 psi it put down 333hp 324tq, had the clutch put in by the shop that tuned it (not naming names). both times on the dyno it was on a dynojet

not sure on 60' time last year but this year it was 1.929

[blkonblk2red]

before the tune I was running 30 psi on the stock evo 8 turbo and put down 324hp 398tq after the tune at 25 psi it put down 333hp 324tq, had the clutch put in by the shop that tuned it (not naming names). both times on the dyno it was on a dynojet

not sure on 60' time last year but this year it was 1.929

30 psi race gas? or 93? or e85 ? lol never seen stock that high

398 torque????

i've heard just by doing IX turbo helps 15- 20 tuned...

[turbo dragon]

I dont have a wideband yet but I will get one before I get retuned. speaking of the wideband when a tuning shop tunes a car, to tune it right they need to use a wideband right, cause they didnt do that either.
the guy at the track activated the 2 stage and it help a lot off the line but every time I shift it took at least a full sec. to burn off and pick back up. no change to wheels yet and its trowing a code for sensor 1 I think Ill have to go out and read the code when it stops raining for a min.

[TouringBubble]

Well, you suck at launching ... lol. Just kidding. But you should be able to cut 1.7 to 1.8 60's in an Evo all day with some practice.

When comparing 1/4 mile stuff, you mainly want to look at trap speeds. Those will reflect your power numbers more than the actual ET. For instance, you could run a 13.0 @ 102 if you drive well, then make more power and run a 13.3 @ 104. More speed up top means you are making more power, but the ET reflects poorer driving.

Aside from that, DynoJet tunes, IMO, should ALWAYS be verified on the street as they are not load bearing and the tuned load cells will usually be a little off when you let the car pull it's own weight in the real world.

the high boost on your old tune is the reason for that massive torque. That was honestly way too much boost as you're killing the top end running it like that. Heat builds up and potential HP up top drops as you're pushing to turbo to 100% all the time. that will work for hero runs on the dyno/1/4 mile, but it's not a good plan for a street car. the new tune honestly seems like a better choice if I were just looking at numbers.

Maybe you had a much better 330' time/speed on the old run because of all that torque that you no longer have. I'd have to see the slips to really weigh in.

[turbo dragon]

lol it was 93 pump, thats what everyone else said too so I bought another gauge thinking the old one may be broke but it read the same thing 30 psi so I left it like that for a year til it got tune

[TouringBubble]

Speaking of the wideband when a tuning shop tunes a car, to tune it right they need to use a wideband right, cause they didnt do that either.
the guy at the track activated the 2 stage and it help a lot off the line but every time I shift it took at least a full sec. to burn off and pick back up. no change to wheels yet and its trowing a code for sensor 1 I think Ill have to go out and read the code when it stops raining for a min.

Yes, you should be tuned with a wideband for fuel. I don't see why a shop with a dyno wouldn't have a $200 accessory for it to make their lives simpler and their tunes better. Maybe you just didn't know they used it?

the CEL you have could cause the car to run on different maps or pull timing, which would likely lower power. Get that sorted.

If you'd like, I could look over your current tune and let you know if anything is way off. Without logs it's hard to pick out definite issues, but if something is REALLY wrong it can sometimes be seen in the ROM itself, such as improper injector settings or goofed up timing/fuel maps.

[turbo dragon]

I know they didnt use a wideband cause I sat out there in there shop and watched them take it of the rack from the clutch install and back it to the dyno, never plugged one in here are the first three runs I did

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t45/turbodragon/importshowdown2010017.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t45/turbodragon/importshowdown2010018.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t45/turbodragon/importshowdown2010019.jpg

would I have to meet you somewhere for you to look over the tune

[TouringBubble]

Is this on AEM or the stock ECU?

[evogotspray]

1000cc sounds lil big for those mods.... idk

[TouringBubble]

The injectors should be fine if set up properly. They are a little overkill, but shouldn't actually cause problems.

[turbo dragon]

stock ECU

[TouringBubble]

TD, I'm sorry to say, but the tune wouldn't be the first thing to consider slowing you down by looking at those time slips. Basically, your driving is very inconsistent and with that you simply cannot draw a conclusion of the car's performance.

If you go to the track and can consistently run within a few 0.1's or so, then you can consider how changes to the car and tune may be affecting the performance. Without that consistency, comparing track times is useless.

For instance, I went to the track with just under 300hp/tq soon after getting the car. I started at a 13.2 and ended up running 4 back-to-back passes at 13.0 and 13.1. The entire day was within 0.2. Of course you will have "off" runs with a time that's way off the wall, but you haven't shown much consistency with 3 runs within a 1.3 sec spread.

I'd still be happy to look over your tune if you can find someone local with a cable that can pull the ROM and e-mail it to me, or maybe even do some pulls with you and send me logs.

[turbo dragon]

is there anyone local with a cable or data log that would like to meet somewhere to help a guy out

[turbo dragon]

thinking the reason for the inconsistency I may have fouled some plugs running it so rich idk Im not a tuner

[TouringBubble]

That may be true. Only logging or pulling the plugs could tell you.

[turbo dragon]

pulled them they look dark brown

[Psych]

I know every car is different but I think your power numbers are a little off? I have less mods than you and I have you by 20whp. Those cams arent that bad WHEN they are degreed. Ive read countless threads about how the BC Cams have to be degreed. Leaving them at TDC does nothing. PM me

[turbo dragon]

went to BC web site and they have a dyno graph of an evo with less mods than I do with the one cam gear -2 and the other -1 thats what I adjusted them to and it help a lot but still have the problem when I change gears

[VIIIrs]

You said your car was bucking between shifts? Mine did that when i was still on the stock turbo and my tune from Battleground. I think your running rich and when your shifting it's getting super rich between shifts and causing the bucking issue. I could be wrong but as soon as i upgraded my turbo on that same tune the car leaned out a lil more and was running like a champ.

[turbo dragon]

I hate to go a buy a bigger turbo and it not fix it though

[VIIIrs]

I'm not saying that i'm saying you need to fix how rich your car is running. I'm just saying without tuning my car putting the bigger turbo leaned it out a bit and helped a lot.

[TouringBubble]

TD, you NEED to have the car logged to check for a problem. It could be the tune, or it could be something else. You're kind of just running in circles guessing about things right now. Without data, there is no way to get a real conclusion.

[Psych]

A friend of mine had that issue with his car too with it being rich between his shifts. Lol, after everything it ended up being the VTA HKS SSQV. So...what kind a bov are you running?

[turbo dragon]

turbo xs not sure which one with out looking it but it recirculates