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View Full Version : Ferodos NOT Stopping Well!


Hikaru
05-21-2009, 07:44 PM
I just replaced my front and rear pads with Ferodo DS2500 pads as is per standard in the evo community. They were properly installed and bedded by a local shop. Only problem is braking power seems to be like 60% of stock! There is almost zero initial bite. Feels like the car is 500 lbs heavier. In order to produce enough stopping force under hard braking I have to push the pedal to the floor. Then ABS kicks in. The brakes have never been bled but I'm only at 31,000 mi. and the car has never been tracked or autoxed. Inital bite was MUCH better with the sock pads. Rotors are in great shape with no warping or scoring. I know that sometimes it takes time for the pad to confrom to the rotor but these pads went on a week and a half ago. I know what they should feel like (Ryan has the same pads) but it's just not happening. Anyone have any suggestions??? I'm stumped...:confused:

PS- They squeak like shit under light braking.

shunderwunder
05-21-2009, 08:26 PM
Find out what the recomended bed in procedure is & re-bed them. It's worth a shot. I loved mine when I had em. They didn't even squeal much at low speed. Ferodos work well when hot so they may just need a good heat cycle. Just a few ideas. I don't really know.

em1toevo
05-21-2009, 08:46 PM
There has to be something wrong. They are great pads.

manchi
05-21-2009, 09:02 PM
hmm. i'm having Ferodos on front and rear. they stop great. no squeak at all. Maybe you needed to bleed at once? don't hurt much to bleed anyways :p

BlackIX
05-21-2009, 09:19 PM
they didnt open the lines to the calipers did they? just throwing ideas out there but if so there could be air in the lines. if this doesnt make any since then i apologize im drunk but im tryin my best to help lol

Hikaru
05-21-2009, 09:27 PM
^LOL! Makes perfect sense bro. Work was done at Forged. They installed Ryan's brakes (I think) so I'm pretty sure they know what they are doing. I'm gonna swing by tomorrow so they can check it out. They may just take time to kick in. But 1.5 weeks??

BlackIX
05-21-2009, 09:34 PM
yea i trust forged. thats weird though. iv never had a problem with my brakes

Charlie
05-22-2009, 11:55 AM
I use the same pads and love em.

Sounds like air in the lines. I would re-bed them after you bleed the lines.

TouringBubble
05-22-2009, 11:58 AM
Yes, bleed the lines and re-bed the pads.

Procedure:
Get the pads up to temp slowly with low speed stops at about 50% brake pressure ... one from 20, 30, 40 and 50. Once the pads are up to temp, do about 15 stops at about 80% pressure from 55 or 60 mph. Then drive a few miles for cooldown going easy on them ... brake light and early ... use the e-brake to hold at lights if needed ... don't keep them clamped to the rotor at a stop.

Hikaru
05-22-2009, 12:32 PM
Just got back from Forged. My rotors are fucked. There was too much pad transfer from my old brakes and resurfacing is outta the question. Imma just get new rotors, bleed the brakes, and install some stainless lines. Anyone recommend some good rotors for the street??

ZenMotors
05-22-2009, 01:00 PM
Just got back from Forged. My rotors are fucked. There was too much pad transfer from my old brakes and resurfacing is outta the question. Imma just get new rotors, bleed the brakes, and install some stainless lines. Anyone recommend some good rotors for the street??

DBA 4000's slotted. Great Street, and track rotor.

I can do those for $379.99 Shipped. + Tax:D

Hikaru
05-22-2009, 01:38 PM
^front and rear Tray?

ZenMotors
05-22-2009, 01:47 PM
^front and rear Tray?

That was for just the fronts.

Hikaru
05-22-2009, 02:08 PM
Ok, it's between the DBA 4000 and the Giro Disc one piece directional vane. Comments??

ZenMotors
05-22-2009, 02:53 PM
Sent you a PM!

shunderwunder
05-22-2009, 03:06 PM
I hear good things about the DBA's. They should have noticed the the pad transfer though.

Hikaru
05-22-2009, 04:58 PM
^ I know man. That's just what Sharif and the tech thinks. Those pads should perform. Either way the my rotors are worn down to where they need to be replaced anyway.

shunderwunder
05-22-2009, 06:10 PM
I was looking into these a while back. They look to be pretty nice & inexpensive.http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/90831-211-1479.htm

ZIGZAG
05-23-2009, 03:49 AM
DBA 4000's slotted. Great Street, and track rotor.

I can do those for $379.99 Shipped. + Tax:D


That's a good price Tray. Is that the same rotor they used in that youtube DBA test on the yellow Evo?

ZenMotors
05-23-2009, 10:12 AM
That's a good price Tray. Is that the same rotor they used in that youtube DBA test on the yellow Evo?

I'm not sure about a YouTube test. I'll have to look that up. But I know from first hand experience they are a great rotors.

Take care!

ZenMotors
05-23-2009, 10:17 AM
I was looking into these a while back. They look to be pretty nice & inexpensive.http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/90831-211-1479.htm

looks can be decieving! Ts race car had those on for 4 track days. Minimimal use it blew all the internal seals and lost brake. Lost the event. And could have been really dangerous.

It's worth the extra money for Stoptech, Brembo, Ap racing, Wilwood etc...

Take care!

kblock4life
11-01-2009, 02:57 AM
i have the DBA's and they perform amazing and they look cool too! :)

bomjoon
11-01-2009, 10:06 PM
i had the perf friction 2pc... they didnt seem like they worked better than the 1 piece design... but then again i didnt have that much time comparing both...

my ferodos brake really awesome. the initial bite is less than hawk's but these dont fade like the hawk's do.

you will really love the ferodos at the track. you can go balls out and dont get scared of the brake fade.

bomjoon
11-01-2009, 10:08 PM
lol i just noticedthis thread was older than ryan's mom.