Free Detailing Advice!

[TripperFx3]

As most of you know I've been detailing professionally for close to 4 years now. I thought I'd start this thread to give any info I can give. Seeing that everyone here likes to, at a minimum, keep their Evo clean and some are even starting side business and some may just want to be a detailing enthusiast. So if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask and I'll clear up anything I can as best as I can. To those who run detailing business (Russ and Zen), please understand I'm not trying to get anyone to not use your services. Merely posting this to those DYI'ers out there.

To start out I noticed that Evo8MRgirls had posted in another thread about a product to cover up a small scratch. To answer that there are some polishes and waxes that have "fillers" in them which may do exactly that and fill in the scratch, but next time you wash the car those fillers will be washed out and you'll have to apply the product again. To be honest if it really is that small of a scratch pick up a damaged fender from a body shop (should be free) and then practice wetsanding on that. Wetsanding and polishing/compounding is the permanent way to fix it. If you want to post a pic of the scratch I can let you know how much work it'll actually require to get out. Some scratches, if they don't catch on your finger nail, can just be polished out.

[TouringBubble]

Are the "liquid" clay bar products as good as a real clay bar?

Any tips for removing stubborn cone scuffs from autocross? I use the above mentioned liquid clay bar but it doesn't always do the job well.

Do you recommend/prefer synthetic or natural waxes?

[TripperFx3]

The "liquid" clay bars are ineffective IMO. If I have a job and can't order an Adams Clay bar I run to Autozone and pick up a clay bar called Clay Magic. It's the best OTC clay you can buy and that should work on the cone marks as well. It may just take a lot of lube and elbow grease.

"Synthetic" waxes are actually known as sealants and they normally last longer, but I actually go off whatever the color of the car is. For instance if a car has a lot of flake in it or is a lighter color I usually go with a sealant. If the car is darker or doesn't have a lot of flake (think electric blue, or Rally red) then I'll go with a caranuba wax. If you really want to get into it sometimes I'll use a sealant and top it off with a caranuba. For instance I'll use a product known as 4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection (sealant) and top it with my Wolfgang Fuzion (178 dollar wax that gives excellent depth, even on lighter colors), so I get the best of both worlds.

For a GG like yours I'd recommend a sealant though.

[D.Wesse]

since its the same book that you are downloading, there are probably several numbers that work for it. If that one doesnt, just go register for yourself. Its free anyways.

[Evolvedgti]

since its the same book that you are downloading, there are probably several numbers that work for it. If that one doesnt, just go register for yourself. Its free anyways.

Again, WTF. I vote BAN, NOW

[MeFryRice]

^^ I agree. I think it's a spambot. :(

[TripperFx3]

Damn bot cluttering my uber dead thread! WTF!? lol

[manchi]

too cold to do detailing. lol

[TripperFx3]

Never too cold to detail! Cars always gotta stay minty fresh! lol

[TouringBubble]

So, the GTI is COVERED with little black and brown spots all over the paint. It looks like it was parked for a LONG time and then partially washed and the spots were waxed over.

I've worked on it with a clay bar for a while, but it's taking like 2+ hours per panel to completely remove this stuff (working through the wax and the baked-on gunk). But, afterward the paint looks great!

I know clay is for surface contamination like this, but is it the best method for this level of nastiness? I've considered a buffer and polish, but I'm afraid that the contaminants will just scratch the paint if not removed before hand.

Either way, it needs a polish as the clay work is producing minor abrasions while removing the heavy contamination. Luckily, it's white and you can't see them easily.

[TripperFx3]

Your best bet is to get a more aggressive clay bar. You can order one from autogeek.net. If you were to polish it you'll hurt the paint more because the dirt will be getting on the pad and scratching the paint. With the more aggressive clay bar you will need to polish it because it will mar the paint. Make sure you have a good clay lubricant as well.

Heres the link to a good clay bar: http://www.autogeek.net/meprdeclag.html . That'll cut your time in half. Any other Q's please ask!

[bomjoon]

i wash mines with scotch bright and dish washing detergent with a spray of the engine degreser on rims.

[em1toevo]

^ That's the best way to get that oh so deep clean! Bling-bling!